Ten Reasons to never “top” your trees

Tree topping — hacking the entire top section out of a tree looked like a handy quick‑fix back in the 1950s. Fast‑forward to today and most arborists regard it the way physicians view blood‑letting: an interesting historical footnote, but definitely not a best practice. Yet this bad practice lingers, kept alive by well‑meaning neighbors and bargain‑basement “tree crews” with more bravado than training. Let’s dig into why topping harms trees, wallets, and even communities, and highlight the science‑backed alternatives that make the old technique obsolete.

1. A Shock to the System

Imagine your dentist removes 80 percent of your teeth “for easier chewing.” That’s the physiological punch a tree feels when its canopy disappears overnight. Leaves are food factories; strip them away and you cut off the energy stream that fuels growth and defense. The tree has to raid carbohydrate savings intended for roots, flowers, and pest resistance just to stay alive. Many don’t make it through the next drought.

2. A Magnet for Disease & Decay

Proper pruning cuts are made just outside the branch collar, allowing a tree to compartmentalize and seal the wound. Topping cuts aren’t. Stubs split, heartwood is exposed, and opportunistic fungi, borers, and bacteria are attracted to the fresh wound. Within a few seasons long columns of rot travel down the branch—sometimes into the trunk—undermining structural stability and slicing decades off the tree’s life expectancy.

3. Sprouts do not make strong branches

Topping rarely creates a permanently smaller tree. In survival mode, many species push out dozens—sometimes hundreds—of ultra‑fast epicormic shoots around each stub. These sprouts can grow several feet per year, but they’re attached with weak, shallow tissues. Picture broom handles hot‑glued to a phone pole; that’s roughly how secure they are. As sprouts gain weight they snap, becoming airborne projectiles in the next thunderstorm.

4. Sunburn Isn’t Just for Humans

Leaves shade and insulate bark. Remove them and the upper trunk heats like a dashboard in July. Sudden temperature spikes cook the cambium, leading to sunscald cracks, oozing sap, and bark sloughing. Heat injury further weakens the defense system, inviting even more decay.

5. Aesthetic impact

A topped tree is an ugly tree. Curb appeal plummets, and real‑estate professionals routinely knock thousands of dollars off market value when prominent trees have been topped. Many HOAs and city codes now list topping as a violation, so the aesthetic problem quickly becomes a legal one.

6. Hidden Costs & Endless Maintenance

Because it’s fast, topping may look cheaper than skilled pruning. The bargain is short‑lived. Sprout regrowth forces repeat pruning every one to three years. Add emergency removals after limb failures, roof repairs, and potential liability when branches land on cars, and the original “discount” morphs into a money pit. By contrast, proper structural pruning every five to seven years is usually far cheaper across a tree’s lifetime.

7. Safety Risks

Homeowners often request topping because they fear tall limbs falling. Unfortunately, topping creates limbs more likely to fail—weakly attached sprouts, extensive internal rot, and lopsided weight distribution form a perfect hazard cocktail. The practice chosen for safety actually increases risk.

8. Ecological Fallout

Urban trees already battle heat islands and cramped root zones; topping only adds extra stress. Defoliated crowns provide less shade, raising neighborhood temperatures and energy bills. Wildlife loses nesting sites. Furthermore, a heavily decayed tree can shift from a carbon sink to a carbon source as fungi release CO₂. Multiply this effect across a whole street of topped maples and the environmental cost balloons.

9. Outdated Knowledge & Better Alternatives

Topping caught on when pruning standards were young, bucket trucks were new, and fast crew turnover made “cut it all” appealing. Today we have ANSI A‑300 pruning standards, ISA‑Certified Arborists, and decades of arboricultural research. Superior options include:

• Crown reduction – Shortening specific leaders back to strong laterals while preserving the natural outline.

• Crown thinning – Removing selected interior branches to reduce wind sail without gutting the canopy.

• Structural pruning – Training young trees to develop a dominant leader and well‑spaced scaffold limbs so drastic future cuts aren’t needed.

• Right‑tree/right‑place planning – Planting the correct species for the available space; a serviceberry never needs “height control” under powerlines.

Take a look at our article on correct pruning practices.

9½. The Legal Landscape

The shift from “topping accepted” to “topping outlawed” is happening quietly but rapidly. Cities such as Austin, Seattle, and Charlotte now levy fines for topping street trees, labeling the act “irreparable damage to public assets.” Insurance companies increasingly deny storm‑damage claims if investigations reveal the tree had been topped. Even some utilities — once staunch topping advocates—have switched to directional pruning or underground lines. Staying on the right side of the law (and your insurer) now means steering clear of the chainsaw‑crew special.

10. The Big Picture: Respect the Biology

Trees don’t heal—they compartmentalize. Every topping wound is permanent baggage the organism must wall off. A proper pruning cut respects the branch collar, minimizes wound surface, and leaves the tree with enough leaf area to thrive. Prune with biology in mind and you get longer‑lived trees, safer streets, healthier ecosystems, and lower long‑term costs.

Conclusion

Topping is an outdated, dangerous and irresponsible practice: once ubiquitous, now obsolete. Modern arboriculture provides refined techniques that keep trees sized for urban spaces without gutting their health. If someone suggests topping yours, remember—this practice is rooted in outdated misconceptions, and the hidden costs sprout faster than any branch you’ll remove. Hire a certified arborist, invest in proper pruning, and let your trees reach new heights—safely, gracefully, and rooted in science.

How to prune trees - The right way

If trees could talk, they’d probably beg us to prune them—politely, of course, and maybe with a branchy wink. Proper pruning is the botanical equivalent of preventive medicine, a blend of art and science that keeps our trees healthy, safe, and looking good. Below you’ll find the Holistic Tree Works deep dive into why pruning matters, how it works, and the best practices that separate high quality arboricultural work from accidental topiary crimes.

Why Prune at All?

Picture a mature oak shading a backyard patio. Left entirely to its own devices, that oak can develop broken limbs, storm‑vulnerable co‑dominant stems, and deadwood poised to ruin someone’s lemonade. Pruning addresses three big needs:

1. Health. Removing diseased, dying, or rubbing branches improves airflow, reduces fungal pressure, and relieves pressure at branch unions.

2. Safety. Weak crotches, split leaders, and long overextended branches all present a danger to property and people. Proactive pruning lowers the odds of limb drop and tear outs during high winds or stormy conditions.

3. Structure & Aesthetics. Well‑placed cuts guide young trees into balanced architecture, raise canopies over sidewalks, and keep fruit trees within reach of humans under six feet tall.

Skipping regular pruning doesn’t just lead to ugly canopies; it shortens a tree’s life by compounding structural flaws year after year. Small, regular interventions stave off major surgery down the road.

The Biology Behind good pruning

Every pruning decision rests on one fundamental rule: trees don’t heal; they compartmentalize. When a branch is cut, the tree seals the wound by walling off the injured tissue with specialized cells called callus. A proper cut, made just outside the branch bark ridge and branch collar, results in a round doughnut of callus that eventually closes over. An improper flush cut slices through that collar, stripping natural defenses and inviting decay organisms inside the tree to cause bigger problems in future.

Equally vital is the concept of stored energy. Trees stash carbohydrates in roots and trunk wood, spending that energy to leaf out each spring. Over‑pruning (removing more than 25‑30 percent of live foliage in a season) robs the tree of its solar panel, forcing it into costly emergency sprouting (a.k.a. epicormic shoots). The presence of these sprouts is a strong indicator that the tree is stressed and desperately trying to recover it’s canopy

Timing Is Everything

A celebrated arborist once said, “You can prune a tree  any time —but some times are better than others.” In temperate climates, late winter to very early spring (while trees are still dormant) is a pretty good rule of thumb. Cuts made just before budding:

• minimize sap loss in maples and birches,

• give wounds a full growing season to seal,

• avoid peak disease vectors such as summer beetles that spread oak wilt.

That said, summer pruning can tame overly vigorous growth on fruit trees, and selective deadwood removal is safe almost any time. Autumn is least ideal; pruning triggers new shoots that may not harden off before frost. As for flowering ornamentals, follow the “rule of bloom”:

• Spring bloomers (forsythia, dogwood, redbud) set next year’s buds on old wood—prune right after they finish flowering.

• Summer bloomers (crape myrtle, rose‑of‑Sharon) bloom on new wood—prune during dormancy.

When in doubt, whip out a calendar (or a certified arborist) before you whip out the saw.

Core Pruning Techniques

Crown Cleaning - Remove dead, diseased, or detached limbs throughout the canopy. This is housekeeping, not remodeling, and rarely removes more than 10 percent of live foliage.

Crown Thinning - Selectively remove small interior branches to improve light penetration and reduce wind sail, but never “lion‑tail” (stripping foliage off branch interiors). Aim for balanced spacing, retaining the natural outline.

Crown Raising - Gradually remove lower limbs to provide clearance for vehicles, lawnmowers, or the neighbor’s inflatable holiday menagerie. Remove entire limbs back to the trunk; don’t leave canes that sprout bristly knuckles.

Crown Reduction - Shorten the overall height or spread by cutting back to strong lateral branches at least one‑third the diameter of the removed portion. Do not top (flat‑line) a tree—this creates decay, sunscald, and an army of weak shoots. Proper reduction respects growth points and maintains leader dominance.

Vista Pruning - Frame an ocean view or a prized mountain sunset without scalping the canopy by selectively removing branches that obstruct sight lines. Think of it as “arboreal window dressing.” Each technique has a purpose; mixing them indiscriminately is like putting ketchup in coffee. Use the right tool for the right job.

Bringing It All Together

Proper pruning intertwines plant physiology, structural engineering, and a dash of aesthetics. Done well, it:

• increases a tree’s service life by decades,

• slashes storm‑damage risk,

• enhances property value and curb appeal,

• boosts flower and fruit production,

• and supports urban biodiversity by letting sunlight reach understory shrubs and pollinator beds.

The best practice roadmap looks like this:

1. Start early, prune small. Young‑tree training prevents big‑tree surgeries.

2. Know your species and season. Bloom timing and disease cycles matter.

3. Use sharp, sterile tools. Clean cuts compartmentalize quickly.

4. Follow natural form. Let a maple look like a maple, not a lollipop.

5. Limit canopy removal. Think diet, not crash cleanse.

6. Document and monitor. Keep a pruning log with dates, targets, and follow‑up notes.

Above all, approach trees as living assets—not static furniture. Each cut is permanent; make it with intention. And call us if you’re not sure.

How to plant a tree

Planting a tree might seem as simple as “dig hole, insert tree, add water,” but much like trying to assemble furniture without instructions, skipping the details can lead to wobbly results. The good news? You can give your tree the best shot at thriving by following a few time-tested best practices.

Start with the Right Tree (and Right Place)

Just like people, trees have preferences. Some like it hot, some like it shady. Some need space to stretch their roots, while others are more compact and cozy. So before you even pick up a shovel, take a good look at your site and ask a few questions:

• What’s the climate like? Pick a tree that thrives in your USDA Hardiness Zone.

• How much sun will the site get? Full sun, partial sun, or mostly shade?

• What’s the soil type? Sandy, loamy, clay-heavy? Drainage matters!

• What’s nearby? Consider power lines, buildings, sidewalks, and underground utilities.

Pro tip: Avoid the tree version of impulse shopping. Just because a tree looks pretty at the nursery doesn’t mean it’s a good fit for your yard. Do some homework (or talk to an arborist) first.

Size (of the Planting Hole) Matters

Once you’ve picked the perfect tree, it’s time to prepare the site. This is where things often go wrong—people dig a narrow, deep hole like they’re planting a telephone pole.

Instead, aim for a hole that is:

• 2–3 times wider than the root ball

• The same depth as the root ball (or slightly shallower)

Why so wide? Tree roots grow outward, not downward (at least initially). A wide hole loosens the surrounding soil and gives roots room to establish quickly. And don’t dig too deep! Planting a tree too deep is like wearing a turtleneck over your mouth and nose—it suffocates. The root flare (where the trunk flares out at the base) should be visible above the soil line after planting.

Inspect the Roots

If your tree comes in a container or as balled and burlapped (B&B), the roots might be circling or compacted. Girdling roots (those that wrap around the trunk or each other) can strangle the tree as it grows.

Here’s what to do:

• Container trees: Remove the pot. Gently loosen circling roots with your fingers. If they’re tightly wound, you might need to make vertical slices with a clean knife.

• B&B trees: Remove as much of the burlap, wire, and twine as possible—yes, even the so-called biodegradable stuff. Left in place, these materials can restrict growth and cause future problems.

This step might feel a bit rough, but trees are surprisingly resilient. Be gentle but firm

Dont backfill badly

You’ve got the hole. You’ve got the tree. Now it’s time to backfill—the act of putting the soil back in around the roots. Best practices for backfilling:

• Use the same soil you dug out. No fancy amendments needed.

• Break up clumps and remove rocks or debris.

• As you fill, gently firm the soil to remove air pockets—but don’t stomp! You’re planting a tree, not putting up a tent.

• Water as you backfill to help settle the soil naturally.

Avoid the temptation to add fertilizer at this stage. Young trees need time to establish roots before dealing with nutrient boosts, which can actually do more harm than good early on.

Why we always plant with mulch

I really can’t say enough good things about mulch—it conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, and reduces weed competition. But it needs to be done correctly, or it becomes more of a problem than a solution.

How to mulch like a pro:

• Spread mulch in a 2–4 inch layer around the base of the tree.

• Extend the mulch out to the drip line if possible (the area under the canopy).

• Keep mulch away from the trunk. Think donut, not volcano.

Mulch piled against the trunk holds moisture and encourages rot, pests, and disease. Let the trunk breathe.

Water Wisely

This is one of the biggest factors in a young tree’s success. Too much or too little water can both be fatal. Simply follow this rule:

• Water deeply and infrequently.

  • For the first couple of weeks: water every 2–3 days.

  • After that: once a week, adjusting for rain and temperature.

Use a slow trickle at the base or a soaker hose to ensure water reaches the root zone. Don’t just spritz the leaves and call it a day.

Stake or no Stake?

Most trees don’t need staking, and in fact, it can do more harm than good. Trees develop stronger trunks and root systems when they sway slightly in the wind.

Staking may be necessary if:

• The tree is in a very windy location

• The root ball is unstable or top-heavy

• The tree was poorly pruned and needs temporary support

If you do stake:

• Use soft, flexible ties

• Place stakes outside the root ball zone

• Remove the stakes within one year

The goal is to support the tree, not create a lifelong crutch.

Final Thoughts: Planting with Purpose

Planting a tree isn’t just an afternoon project—it’s a long-term investment in your landscape, your community, and the planet. Trees provide shade, clean air, beauty, habitat, and even boost property values. But like all good things, it starts with a solid foundation.

So remember: pick the right tree, give it room to breathe, don’t bury it alive, water it thoughtfully, and protect it from weed whackers and well-meaning over-pruners. Good Luck!