How to plant a tree
Planting a tree might seem as simple as “dig hole, insert tree, add water,” but much like trying to assemble furniture without instructions, skipping the details can lead to wobbly results. The good news? You can give your tree the best shot at thriving by following a few time-tested best practices.
Start with the Right Tree (and Right Place)
Just like people, trees have preferences. Some like it hot, some like it shady. Some need space to stretch their roots, while others are more compact and cozy. So before you even pick up a shovel, take a good look at your site and ask a few questions:
What’s the climate like? Pick a tree that thrives in your USDA Hardiness Zone.
How much sun will the site get? Full sun, partial sun, or mostly shade?
What’s the soil type? Sandy, loamy, clay-heavy? Drainage matters!
What’s nearby? Consider power lines, buildings, sidewalks, and underground utilities.
Pro tip: Avoid the tree version of impulse shopping. Just because a tree looks pretty at the nursery doesn’t mean it’s a good fit for your yard. Do some homework (or talk to an arborist) first.
Size (of the Planting Hole) Matters
Once you’ve picked the perfect tree, it’s time to prepare the site. This is where things often go wrong—people dig a narrow, deep hole like they’re planting a telephone pole.
Instead, aim for a hole that is:
2–3 times wider than the root ball
The same depth as the root ball (or slightly shallower)
Why so wide? Tree roots grow outward, not downward (at least initially). A wide hole loosens the surrounding soil and gives roots room to establish quickly. And don’t dig too deep! Planting a tree too deep is like wearing a turtleneck over your mouth and nose—it suffocates. The root flare (where the trunk flares out at the base) should be visible above the soil line after planting.
Inspect the Roots
If your tree comes in a container or as balled and burlapped (B&B), the roots might be circling or compacted. Girdling roots (those that wrap around the trunk or each other) can strangle the tree as it grows.
Here’s what to do:
Container trees: Remove the pot. Gently loosen circling roots with your fingers. If they’re tightly wound, you might need to make vertical slices with a clean knife.
B&B trees: Remove as much of the burlap, wire, and twine as possible—yes, even the so-called biodegradable stuff. Left in place, these materials can restrict growth and cause future problems.
This step might feel a bit rough, but trees are surprisingly resilient. Be gentle but firm
Dont backfill badly
You’ve got the hole. You’ve got the tree. Now it’s time to backfill—the act of putting the soil back in around the roots. Best practices for backfilling:
Use the same soil you dug out. No fancy amendments needed.
Break up clumps and remove rocks or debris.
As you fill, gently firm the soil to remove air pockets—but don’t stomp! You’re planting a tree, not putting up a tent.
Water as you backfill to help settle the soil naturally.
Avoid the temptation to add fertilizer at this stage. Young trees need time to establish roots before dealing with nutrient boosts, which can actually do more harm than good early on.
Why we always plant with mulch
I really can’t say enough good things about mulch—it conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, and reduces weed competition. But it needs to be done correctly, or it becomes more of a problem than a solution.
How to mulch like a pro:
Spread mulch in a 2–4 inch layer around the base of the tree.
Extend the mulch out to the drip line if possible (the area under the canopy).
Keep mulch away from the trunk. Think donut, not volcano.
Mulch piled against the trunk holds moisture and encourages rot, pests, and disease. Let the trunk breathe.
Water Wisely
This is one of the biggest factors in a young tree’s success. Too much or too little water can both be fatal. Simply follow this rule:
Water deeply and infrequently.
For the first couple of weeks: water every 2–3 days.
After that: once a week, adjusting for rain and temperature.
Use a slow trickle at the base or a soaker hose to ensure water reaches the root zone. Don’t just spritz the leaves and call it a day.
Stake or no Stake?
Most trees don’t need staking, and in fact, it can do more harm than good. Trees develop stronger trunks and root systems when they sway slightly in the wind.
Staking may be necessary if:
The tree is in a very windy location
The root ball is unstable or top-heavy
The tree was poorly pruned and needs temporary support
If you do stake:
Use soft, flexible ties
Place stakes outside the root ball zone
Remove the stakes within one year
The goal is to support the tree, not create a lifelong crutch.
Final Thoughts: Planting with Purpose
Planting a tree isn’t just an afternoon project—it’s a long-term investment in your landscape, your community, and the planet. Trees provide shade, clean air, beauty, habitat, and even boost property values. But like all good things, it starts with a solid foundation.
So remember: pick the right tree, give it room to breathe, don’t bury it alive, water it thoughtfully, and protect it from weed whackers and well-meaning over-pruners. Good Luck!